If you take a walk behind the vegetable and fruit market on Athinas Street you will discover a very real Athens with crazy one off shops selling all sorts of food related items, luggage, kitchen supplies, souvenirs and the like. Tucked in on Theatrou Street is a small hangout filled with local characters having an ouzo and eating all sorts of delicious small plates of food. Varesis is the kind of place you might expect to get a friendly slap in the face. I asked the owner when the restaurant opened and he said "before you were born" oblivious to my advanced age. The marinated dishes, like anchoives and veggie are excellent. Go up to the kitchen and take a look in the window to get a sense of what you would like to order. The service is efficient, not too friendly and not rude, just as it should be. I like to sit outside and watch the runway of people traversing back and forth on Theatrou Street including construction workers as the street seems to be constantly being dug up. And after you've finished eating go admire the derelict neoclassical buildings located directly across the street. @thstheatroutosteki