We start at the National Garden, near Syntagma Square, a wonderland of plants, parrots, exercising Evzones, and chic Athenians. We head next to Ariston Bakery, for one of the city’s best pitas, then across the street into an Athenian stoa (think proto–indoor mall) to Aristokrat­ikon chocolatiers, a favorite of Princess Grace’s. Before lunch a cup of mountain tea at Athenée, formerly the famous Zonar’s. Then to Vou­kourestiou Street (Lalaounis on the corner!), with its elegant shops. (I’m a fan of interwar architecture, and the neighborhood of Kolonaki is loaded with it.)

We continue up the hill to my favorite restaurant in Athens, Papadakis, then stroll down FokilidouStreet. The big finale is the Benaki Museum of Greek decorativearts. At which point we’re ready for a well-made martini at TheClumsies, followed by dinner at Nolan (Japanese-Mediterraneanfusion) or the more classic Filema onRomvis Street. Greeks do an evening walk: Take the back streets of Pláka with a final lap around the ancient Roman Agora. (Instagram: @PeterandMrStavros)